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FACING MOUNT KENYA |  In the time of creation, God could only descend to earth in a place of absolute and divine purity. The Kikuyu people believe that this place was the highest peak of the Mountain they called Kirinyaga - meaning a place of light and darkness. The light they saw at the top of the mountain, which they called ira, was in fact snow and ice.
For the Kikuyu, the high alpine peak was the resting place of their god Ngai. From this high vantage point, he created the first man Gikuyu and his wife Mumbi, who lived below the mountain in a grove of fig trees. A sacrifice at the foot of the mountain brought forth nine young men from a fire to marry the nine daughters of Gikuyu, bringing the nine clans of the Kikuyu into being.
Kirinyaga, now known as Mount Kenya, remains the sacred heart of Kikuyu folklore. Traditional belief dictates that all Kikuyu homes should be built with their doors facing the mountain. When Kenya’s first President, Jomo Kenyatta, studied anthropology under the great Bronislaw Malinowski, he was encouraged to write his thesis on his own Kikuyu community. His definitive study was published under the title Facing Mount Kenya.
To the Kikuyu, and some other local communities including the Meru and Chuka, the mountain remains a strong cultural symbol and a source of inspiration.
In 1943, the same icy peak was to serve as a very different form of inspiration for a young Italian prisoner of war. Captured by the British in Abyssinia, Felice Bennuzi was transferred to a POW camp in the foothills of the mountain at Nanyuki. He arrived during the rainy season, and had no idea that a 5199m / 17054 ft mountain loomed over the camp.
Bitter and bored, he was awe-struck when the clouds finally parted and revealed the snow-capped summit of Africa’s second highest mountain. His camp lay directly on the equator, and the sudden sight of snow and ice amazed him. An accomplished mountaineer, Benuzzi was struck with a single, and incredible idea. He began to plan a daring escape from the camp, with a single goal in mind: reaching the summit far above his prison. What resulted is one of Africa’s greatest adventure stories. Benuzzi and two of his compatriots managed to escape and with only a few handmade climbing tools began a dangerous ascent of the mountain.
Driven off the North West face of the summit by a blizzard, Benuzzi and one of the other climbers managed to reach the lower peak of Point Lenana. After raising the Italian flag, they descended the mountain and turned themselves in to the authorities.
In February 2002, this legendary tale brought two acclaimed Italian climbers Carlo Spinelli and Fausto de Stefani to Kenya, to make a documentary about Benuzzi. Following in his footsteps, they led an expedition up the mountain. Stefani mounted an assault on the North West face while Spinelli trekked to Point Lenana.
Back in Nairobi, they were full of praise for both Benuzzi and the mountain itself. Stefani was particularly taken with the peak,  explaining “I consider myself a nature lover more than a mountaineer, and for this reason Kenya has the best of both mountain and wilderness”.
This is a sentiment shared by many. Famed mountaineer Rick Ridgeway, author of the classic Seven Summits, lists Mt Kenya as his favourite of all of the world’s mountains.
The Mountain has been a favoured climbing destination for many, ever since British climber Halford Mackinder’s first ascent to the summit in 1899. The British named the upper peaks of Batian (5199m / 17054 ft) and Nelion (5188m / 17025ft) after great Maasai Chiefs, while early explorers christened the mountain with the WaKamba description of its mottled rock and ice- Kee-nyah. This title stuck, and eventually gave the Nation its own name.
 The 20th century saw the mountain explored, climbed and traversed by many adventurers, including Kenyan Mzee Munyao, who planted the new Kenyan flag on the summit at Independence in 1963. There are many reasons why Mt Kenya remains such an enigmatic draw for trekkers, nature lovers and adventurers from all over the globe.
The mountain is famous for its wildlife. It provides the perfect backdrop for great herds of plains game throughout the Laikipia plateau, while the forest that surrounds its lower slopes is an entirely different wild world.
To enter the cool depths of the Mt Kenya forests is to experience Africa at its most primal and pure. The earthy scents of the forest blend with fresh clear air, and the sound of birdsong rings from the high canopy. The forest is alive with game, and  there are herds of elephant and buffalo, and even the occasional lion and rhino living within the mountain’s shadow. Climbers both ascending and descending will often find themselves literally following in the footsteps of leopard and hyena, both of which roam the high moorlands and passes of the mountain, leaving spoor and tracks along the way. The area is famous for its leopards, and there are several panthers, or melanistic leopards living here.
Recently, climbers discovered the frozen bodies of both a leopard and a colobus monkey at the foot of Nelion. Evidently a hunting pursuit had taken both prey and predator onto the mountain’s highest slopes.
Even elephant and buffalo have been witnessed to climb well over 3000m / 10,000 feet on the mountain. It has been observed that these large mammals eat large quantities of stinging nettle as they climb. The plant has been proven to increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood and to strengthen joints for climbing. Mountain guides now cut fresh nettles along the way and boil them up for trekkers and climbers to eat as they ascend the slopes. While eating stinging nettles may sound painful, the taste is actually very similar to spinach, and makes for an excellent camp meal.
The mountain has a very wide variety of activities and opportunities for hiking, trekking and walking. There are a large  number of routes, climbs and traverses possible.
The forest and lower slopes are also perfect for long relaxing walks, game drives or for mountain biking on dirt roads and tracks. Horse riding can be arranged from hotels and lodges throughout the area, and the fresh mountain streams are excellent for trout fishing. There are several trout farms in the area and some, like the attractively designed TamTrout- TreeTrout , have restaurants serving fresh trout.
The trek up the mountain leads through dense forest into steep slopes covered in giant Hagenia Abysinnicus trees, with long distinctive beards that drift on the breeze. In the shadow of the trees, patches of wild berries grow, attracting families of  Sykes monkeys. The thick undergrowth is dotted with colourful gladioli and bright red flowers known as the ‘red hot poker’. Bushbuck and Duiker are often seen bounding across the trail. Keen birdwatchers may sight the rare Abyssinian ground Thrush rustling through the leaf litter, or the spectacular flash of scarlet wing as the Hartleaub’s Turaco passes by.Breaking through the tree-line, trekkers pass through a field of giant heather- on these unique tropical alpine slopes, plants grow increasingly larger as the altitude increases. The field of heather gives way to a notorious stretch of terrain called the “vertical bog”. If this name sounds unpleasant- it is.
The bog is a steep slope of tussock grass and rock, undermined by rich black earth. When it rains, the slope turns into pure glutinous mud. This mud makes for a slow difficult ascent and a perilously fast, slippery descent.
 Beyond the bog is a ridge of bare rock and grass, punctuated by caves and overhangs. Often engulfed in mist, this ridge is a place of total and eerie silence, where the only sign of life is the occasional francolin (a ground bird) scuttling for cover among the rocks and large upright lobelia.
This ridge feels like the gateway to another world, and it proves to be just that. The final approach to the upper slopes is  through a series of awesome valleys. These valleys are surrounded by sheer walls and fields of giant groundsel, while the floors run with fresh clear mountain streams. There are large populations of Hyrax living in these valleys, which are completely devoid of fear of human beings. The Hyrax, which resembles a large hamster, is surprisingly one of the closest living ancestors of the elephant, sharing a common ancestor. Like the montane vegetation, the hyrax here are also much larger than their lowland cousins.
Hiking along the bank of a crystal clear stream surrounded by monumental, cloud crusted rock walls, while spaniel sized hyrax  trot at your side is an experience not far removed from the world of Tolkein’s middle Kingdoms. At the valleys end a climb up high icy rocks delivers the first view of the mountain’s vast jagged peaks.
The novelty of equatorial ice now becomes a reality, as glaciers and snow fields surround the remote huts and camps at 4,000m /14,000 feet. The temperatures here are often below freezing, and many climbers now feel the effects of high altitude.
 Resting for an extra night, and doing daily acclimatization training climbs to “climb high and sleep low” is a good way to ensure a more comfortable and easier ascent. The combination of equatorial sun and
alpine conditions make the final ascent a unique challenge, and the services of a qualified local guide should always be employed.
Most trekkers only ascend as far as Point Lenana (4985m / 16355ft) reached after a strenuous hike up long steep slopes of scree. Parties generally set out at 3 am, climbing in the dark so that they can experience the spectacular sunrise over the mountain. There are several beautiful tarns (natural lakes) surrounding the peaks.
The upper peaks offer plenty of challenging rock and ice routes for more adventurous and experienced climbers. The two main peaks are the summit itself- Batian (5199m / 17054 ft) and its neighbour Nelion (5188m / 17025ft). Approaching either of these peaks is a serious technical climb, with varying routes rated between 3 and 5.11.
 One of the most common routes to the summit is via an ascent of Nelion, followed by an abseil into the vast “gate of mists” between the peaks, and a final ascent to the top of Batian.
Ice climbers will find plenty of challenges on the mountain. There are several glaciers, such as the Lewis and the Diamond Couloir directly below the main peaks, all offering excellent ice climbs.
 Regardless of whether you walk the lower slopes, trek to Lenana or climb to Batian, Mt Kenya offers you plenty of opportunity for adventure, exploration and achievement. The best time to trek and climb is from July to October, and during January and February.
Another reason for Mt Kenya’s great popularity is its accessibility. An easy 2 and a half hour drive from Nairobi on good roads, the Mountain has excellent local accommodation and services for guests.
On the lower slopes of the Mountain near Nanyuki is the famous Mt Kenya Safari Club, created by Hollywood star William Holden. With its opulent surrounds, wild animal orphanage, stables and fantastic views, the club is ideal for a relaxing luxurious stay.
For those seeking a firsthand encounter with the local wildlife, Mountain Lodge in the forest near Kiganjo is an ideal option. This “tree hotel” overlooks a waterhole visited throughout the day and night by an array of wild animals. Guests can watch the ever changing game parade from the comfort of their own balconies.
The best base for those wanting to truly experience the mountain itself is the Naro Moru River Lodge. Open since the  early 1960’s, the lodge has long served as the base for climbing the mountain. Situated on the banks of the river, the lodge offers accommodation in rooms, private cottages or at a private campsite. The lodge has a pool, tennis and squash courts.
While a wide range of activities can be arranged, the real speciality is climbing and trekking, and there is a well stocked mountain store with climbing gear and thermal clothing available for hire. Excellent and highly experienced guides, some with Himalayan and Alp experience, are available for trekking and climbing on the mountain.
Another option is the Mountain Rock hotel, used as a base by a climbing company offering climbs on the Sirimon route. The hotel has both cottages and rooms. This small outfit is enthusiastically run and offers all inclusive trekking packages, as well as other local excursions.
 There are many other accommodation options to be found throughout the Nanyuki, Naro Moru and Timau. Tours and organized treks and climbs can be arranged through many travel agents and safari companies. It is strongly advised that only competent and qualified guides are used on the mountain. Guides should work for an authorized company and carry accreditation from the Warden of Mt Kenya National Park.
The National Park covers the entire area above 3200m and the protected region has now been extended to include the Mount Kenya Forest Reserve, in order to protect the catchment area and indigenous wildlife. Most importantly, the mountain has been declared a World Heritage area by UNESCO, one of only three in the country.
The protection of the Mountain is taken very seriously, both for its environmental and cultural significance. The Warden of Mt Kenya National Park, Bongo Woodley is a member of one of the country’s pioneering conservation families, and is extremely active in the management and active physical conservation of the Park. Important work is being undertaken to ensure safe and practical co-habitation between local people and wildlife, and the maintenance of sustainable natural resources. For further information on conservation of the Park, please visit www.mountkenya.com.
 The National Park also works closely with its visitors to ensure that they have a safe and enjoyable time on the mountain, and that they have minimal impact on the local environment. Tourist traffic can sometimes have a detrimental effect on the ecology of the world’s mountains. In a recent clean-up campaign on Pakistan’s famed K2, 250 tonnes of waste material and over 10 kms of climbing rope were removed from the slopes.
Vigilance on the part of Park rangers and active education of visitors and guides has prevented such a situation from occurring on Mt Kenya. The trails and campsites on the mountain are pristine and free from refuse.
 The Park also works very hard to protect its visitors. A highly skilled and trained Rescue Team, headed by officer Simon Gitau, monitors the safety of climbers and trekkers. This is an elite mountain rescue team, with modern equipment and excellent knowledge of local conditions and mountain medicine. With a full radio network and helicopter back-up, the team have proven themselves capable of carrying out effective high altitude rescue.
 As the world celebrates the International Year of the Mountain, Kenya celebrates the great significance of its highest peak, not just to the future, but also to the past.
The power of this sacred mountain has not been diminished by time. In 1988, the rescue team mounted their most unusual mission yet. They discovered and rescued an elder of the Meru tribe, dressed in a single blanket and sandals, high on the icy ridges of Nelion (5188m / 17025ft). He had climbed without the aid of equipment or guides, on a pilgrimage that he described as simply “going to god”.
Even today, when local climbers find the final ascent hard going and mutter an exhausted “Ngai” (Oh God), their older Kikuyu guides point upwards to the pure white summit and say “He is waiting for you there”.
For full travel information on this region- see the Related Links above.
Special thanks to James Mbugua, William Kihare, Ken Mburu, Steve Wahome, Bongo Woodley, Simon Gitau
Additional Photography by James Mbugua |
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